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When night falls in Lisbon — the people of Fado
Lisbon — Hardly any other place has captivated me as much as the capital of Portugal with its, yes, that's where it starts: I simply lack the right words. You probably have to be Fernando Pessoa, Portugal's most famous and extraordinary poet, to describe this city in words. But I'm not. So what now?
Lisbon has wonderfully gifted us with another art that allows us all to experience this city even when we're not there: Fado. The music that is so typical of this city in particular. Whereby: More the lifestyle of this magical place on the Atlantic Ocean transformed into music.
So I contact Hugo at my hotel for help. Where is the best place to go to experience the real fado. Fado with and with the locals. With which I can dive into the emotional depth of this city, sink into it, merge with it Hugo recommends the Tasca do Chico in Alfama, the Old Town. I'd best be there right away at 19:00, the Tasca do Chico is a traditional Fado Place. What he wants to say: Small, usually reserved — and therefore quickly booked out. I don't have a reservation, so I'm on my way right away.
I'm there on time, but there are already a lot of people waiting in front of the entrance. It doesn't look good for me in view of the very small restaurant: a narrow hose maybe three meters wide and a maximum of nine meters long — with small tables and benches left and right. But I'm lucky. I tell Elvira, a wonderfully warm woman at the entrance, about my love for Lisbon and Fado. And my absolute wish to spend this evening, tonight, in the world of Fado. She nods warmly with a smile and points to a place at the end of the room. The singers normally sat there, but they could lack a place. I'm already inspired.
First, there is a small menu consisting of caldo verde, the typical Portuguese potato soup, a meat dish and finally one of the typical desserts. Plus bread and wine. Served by Elvira and her equally wonderful colleague Adriano, who also runs the bar.
By the way: For those of you who have never come into contact with Fado or simply want to listen to it: The following is a Spotify playlist specially put together for this article:
The Opera Stars at the Bar
All of a sudden, the light goes out; only the candles on the candlesticks provide light. Adriano Emerges from Behind the Bar and Greets the Guests and the Two Guitarists Who Have Already Taken Their Seats on the Sidelines. In any case, that is what my very limited Portuguese understands. I'm sure he'll say more, but that's beyond my language skills. Europe undoubtedly impresses with its diversity, including the various languages — unfortunately, this is not always very helpful for communication. Anyway, I think to myself and just listen to the beauty of the Portuguese language, which is a pleasure in its softness and, I think, suits the warm nature of the people here.
And then Elvira also comes out from behind the bar — and starts singing! Namely: Oh — my — God! Her voice has a volume, a character, a quality that I would expect in an opera but not necessarily in a small restaurant on a small street somewhere near the harbor! And she sings in a way that is absolutely moving. But I have to write better: She doesn't just sing, she expresses Fado with her entire body — with her voice, her facial expressions, her movements. Yes even with her eyes when she has closed them.
And now Adriano is also joining in to enter into a — quasi-sung — conversation with Elvira. A second time within a few minutes I am speechless: a voice, a timbre, an enthusiasm with which he brings Fado to life — I would have expected him just as much earlier in an opera! Apparently I'm not the only one who is speechless: Everyone seems banned. But only until the end of the song — that's when enthusiastic applause breaks out! Goosebumps!
A Firework of Singers
After this prelude, what you don't know as a stranger or as a newcomer is happening: One and the other from the crowd of people present take turns standing up one after the other to perform well-known but also their own pieces. From young to old — and all at the same high level and passion as from Elvira and Adriano. At least, because among them are absolute Fado legends such as Alice Nunes, Nuno de Aguiar or even João Chora, all of whom have been celebrating this art for decades. Impressive to be able to experience them all up close and 'unplugged' here as in a living room!
The pieces of Fado music are, quite simply, about life: both about happy, exuberant — as well as about disappointed love. About the big events in life, such as weddings and the birth of children, as well as about the little anecdotes of life — and here again the funny and also the absurd. Sometimes with a wink, sometimes with tears in my eyes. Sometimes happy, sometimes angry. Yes, Fado is on stage tonight — and he's playing the play “Life”! Where stage and audience merge into one another. Together, close together and united in mutual sympathy!
It is hardly possible to be together more intensively than with Fado.
Accompaniment included — the guitarists
Incidentally, the singers are always accompanied by guitarists, often by two: one with a “normal” acoustic guitar and one with a Portuguese twelve-sided guitar.
In doing so, they are in no way inferior to the singers in their fervor and immersion. And this in two forms: on the one hand with their instruments and on the other hand with the singers, because this is also about resonance, about fusion. Watching them take turns diving deep into their instrument — and then intensively looking at each other as well as the singers again: This is also something I can hardly get enough of!
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Saudade — the basis for all that
That brings me to the question of whether — and how — all of this can be explained. This incredible intensity in togetherness, both in music and among the people themselves.
I'm sure some of you have heard of the term 'saudade. 'Almost everywhere (including all prominent websites), this is almost always translated as 'Weltschmerz.' During my time in Lisbon and in particular in the subsequent exchange with Adriano, I learned that this does not do justice to the feeling.
From what I understand about him, Saudade is rather a heartfelt sympathy, a great empathy — for the people in the family, for loved ones, friends, but also for one's own city. You could formulate an emotional resonance with the other person around you. And yes, it is also partly fed by the fate of a seafaring nation: wanderlust on the one hand, which flows into you with its unique light in this city right on the Atlantic — and homesickness when you're not there right now. But not as world pain, but as the most intense love. And, as we all know, it can also hurt once in a while. But is there anything more beautiful than such an intense feeling of love?
It is just after 01:00 in the morning when I leave Tasca do Chico to make my way home to my hotel. It is a 20-minute walk through the empty alleys of Alfama, the darkness only interrupted by the light of the lanterns — and the silence of the night summers through the tangle of voices within me. They fill me so intensely that I can barely think clearly about what that is actually right now. It is so intense that I almost have tears in my eyes.
But maybe it's also very simple: my whole life and all feelings in one moment: Saudade.
Thanks Alice, Elvira, Filipa, Adriano, Joao, Nuno, Afonso, Fiona and everyone else who made this feeling possible for me!
Saudade — that is empathy in its highest form.
What we are taking with us for Europe
Oh Europe, if I could give you some advice: Learn from our Portuguese friends and their fado: more saudade, more empathy and love for others — you can't have a better guarantee of a good future!
